![]() ![]() STock your car can make 20+psi but is requesting 12 so if it has a leak of say 2psi it can make 14-15 to make the boost it wants, people just don't notice that it fails until their software that is supposed to make 20psi only makes 15 because the leak is greater then what the car can compensate for. ![]() Oddly this seal works better with more boost (like a DV) and isn't usually increased boost that kills it. Now if you have so much pressure that the cap blows off or is blowing oil out then you probably have the failed part of the valve that is supposed to seal shut with boost. So if you have the car running and attempt to open the cap but cannot due to the strenght of the vacuum or the car stalls out because having the cap open is drawing in that much unmetered air then you know that restrictor failed, quite common for the rubber to tear. The opposite though when the car is at idle or under vacuum in the intake manifold at part throttle the rubber diaphram in the restrictor pulls itself more and more closed. If you look at that round flat part of the front PCV portion that is a restrictor, at WOT the path to it is closed by a check valve near the connection for the hose going to the intake manifold this prevents boost from blowing into the crankcase defeating the purpose of the PCV. Having too much vacuum will actually literally suck oil right out of the crankcase which is actually more common then the other way with boost blowing into the crankcase. A vacuum gauge was connected to the dipstick tube and the PCV fresh air inlet (at the valve cover) was blocked with the engine idling. With a PCV system like ours routed back to the intake the point is that whether the vacuum the turbo creates at part and wot or the vacuum is created by the intake manifold at idle it will see vacuum however not too much vacuum. If air is being drawn into the crankcase from a leak, then this air cannot be measured, and the system will be lean. There is pressure in the crankcase if you open the cap you now have created the path of least resistance and you will get pressure coming out of the 1.5" hole vs the. I think the 2009 workup made it more luxury while keep the sports sedan responsiveness.PCV stands for Positive crankcase venitilation. I still love the drive, best I've had in the 17+ cars I have owned. Same take off the plastic covers to do anything, but this no dipstick business is just ridiculous. I am getting a high revving second sometimes and might need to see if the stream is flowing slow and steady by removing the 17mm Allen bolt? Just getting to know the audi/VW tech's tricks. For instance I just learned that it has no tranny fluid dipstick either? Even though it is basically an automatic if you don't count the Tiptronic manual feature CVT. I will purchase either one if I can get a definite answer about my car which is a 2009 A4 Quattro 2.0TFSI. No need to remove the whole PCV assembly. Does anyone know if that is definitely the case for my type of engine? I also think I found the tech's dipstick for sale on e-bay for $35.00 if it is manufacturer's part number JTC-4824. Started the car and no more sucking noise when pulling the dipstick Sweet. Can you give me a definitive yes or no? From reading that guy's website and the entire three-page thread the question originated from, I am assuming that if I get the dipstick that I referenced above I will be reading full at the "a" in "Max." on the dipstick. Our precision engineered CNC billet aluminium parts allow you to remove the runner flaps. Remove the runner flaps completely from the manifold using our kit. I already read that and still have the same question. VW R Models MK6 R 2011+ 2.0T FSI Our solution Remove the runner flaps using our kit to improve airflow in the inlet manifold. ![]()
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