I also recommend the acquisition and use of a good lightweight air drill because it is less tiring to use than the average electric drill and has an easily teased trigger for precise speed control. In addition, you should acquire a couple of 12" long (#30 and #40) drill bits for drilling in hard to reach places.īecause these long bits can be easily flexed with your fingers they can be made to drill close to corners, and just about anywhere else that a 90 degree angle drill would otherwise have to be used. However, the tougher, more expensive, Cobalt bits should be used to drill hardened steel parts like landing gear legs and engine mounts. The type of drill bit you will probably use the most is the High Speed Drill (jobbers length) because of its ready availability and low initial cost. Read on to see how you can avoid or at least limit your encounters with these, all too common, hole preparation problems. Making machine countersunk holes for flush rivets (where needed) too shallow or too deep.Forgetting to dimple the top and/or bottom skin for flush riveting.Forgetting to deburr the holes in both skins.However, as if all that isn’t bad enough - after the hole is drilled you can still create other problems by: Drilled O.K., but only after scratching the skin.After all, with thousands of holes to be drilled in a typical all-metal aircraft project, the "opportunity" exists for some of those holes to be: However, not everyone can drill a nice round hole - in thin metal - where it needs to be - and do it right every time.
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